Tête-À-Tea With Sachin Pabreja: A Candid Discussion with Chef Turned Restaurateur Avinash Martins on the Vision and Inspirations Behind His Flagship Restaurant, Cavatina, in Goa

Cavatina Cuchina, nestled in the vibrant coastal city of Goa, India, invites patrons on a culinary journey through the flavors of Indian cuisine. With a cozy yet elegant ambiance, adorned with warm lighting and stylish decor, the restaurant offers a welcoming atmosphere for diners seeking an unforgettable dining experience. Come with me as I discuss the journey, passion, and inspiration that went behind Cavatina with the brilliant Chef and Restaurateur, Avinash Martins.

1. What do you believe sets Cavatina Cuchina apart, in terms of its culinary innovation and excellence?

Avinash Martins: I think Cavatina is an experience that talks about the ethos of Goa. It talks about the people of Goa. It talks about different communities of Goa, and it brings everything to one table. It doesn't distinguish how the Goan cuisine is either Saraswat cuisine or a cuisine with a blend of Catholic, Roman Catholic Portuguese influences, or the lesser-known tribal cuisine. Here Cavatina brings in an amalgamation of all things together in a permutation and combination, and I think that is a storytelling format in which we do our seven-course meals. Our tasting man is based out of that and that brings about a lot of emotion even to a fellow Goan who's dining for him to understand the story of the baker being sustainable.

2. Can you discuss the creative process behind developing new dishes and menu concepts?

Avinash Martins: Yes. So my concept is to bring reimagined Goan food. So how do I turn a Chicken Cafreal, which is such a classic into something creative? I get inspired by the flora and fauna of our forests. And where there are trees, there are birds, and of course, their nests. So drawing inspiration from that, I have reimagined this into classic a fairly new dish called 'Nest in the Woods', which is served on an edible nest made of potato. We do a pulled Chicken Cafreal inside that and we serve the quail egg on top as a garnish. So, all the elements of the forest are there. The nest is there, the tree is there, the egg is there, and the bird is there. So that's how I play around with my food and my creations.

3. Can you describe your cooking philosophy or style? What challenges do you face in the kitchen, and how do you overcome them?

Avinash Martins: My philosophy is working with old tech techniques, which are not practiced anymore. Techniques like smoking fish, slow roasting meats, beat pit roasting, barbecuing, and the ingredients are a challenge because I don't go to the markets for my generic ingredients. I source it from small growers, farmers, and so on, and consistently getting them throughout the year is a challenge, which is why, I change the menu based on seasonality. So yes, the challenge turns into an advantage for me here.

4. How do you integrate principles of sustainability and ethical sourcing into your culinary practices at Cavatina Cuchina?

 Avinash Martins: How do I integrate sustainability and ethical sourcing? So yes, I don't kill the farmer by overburdening him saying, hey, listen, I have so much of a requirement. I let him do his thing. And the beauty of a Chef, I think is working with what he gets. So, whatever he gives, is what we turn around and make something beautiful out of it. So again, as I said, whatever is in season has been served. If it's not in season, it's not on the menu.

5. How do you approach the concept of food as art, and how does this influence your plating and presentation techniques?

Avinash Martins: Yes, I am an artist.  I paint, I love to sketch, I love music, and I love art in all forms. So, for me, food is really a vocation, for me food is about the zen moments. It's about the time I spend in my kitchen, the time I dedicate towards the ingredients and it's not just limited to that, I even go further. I go to the farms to get the vibe of the garden, and it might make you laugh, but I also talk to my ingredients. So that's the whole sentiment behind the relationship between a chef and ingredients. And yes, for me, food is art. It involves all your senses, you see food, then you smell food and then you taste it.

6. What do you enjoy most about being a chef, particularly in the context of operating a restaurant in South Goa?

Avinash Martins: When I first opened the restaurant 11 years back, it was a big struggle as we all know that North Goa has the footfall, South Goa is a quiet, dormant, peaceful, serene little place. Whatever footfall we got was seasonal, which typically started from October and lasted til March or April. And then there were horrible days where for months or weeks, we didn't see tables, we didn't see people coming in. And it kind of broke our hearts and made us question ourselves whether we want to be here, but you know, I stuck to my guns. I said no, if the product is good, and if we believe in ourselves, then nothing is impossible. So we stuck to that. And I think today it's proved the guests coming from all parts of the country and the state to witness what we do and what we create. So that has been my greatest strength to just be adamant and say that no, we're going to do it our way and you know, guests are going to follow it.

7. How do you stay inspired and motivated to continually push the boundaries of your culinary craft?

Avinash Martins: I think,  for a chef, that's the biggest challenge. It's like asking a film producer, how do you turn out hit movies after hit movies? So, I think for me, it's just the Zen feeling of the ingredients, the stories of the artisans. Like I mean, if I see a farmer toiling in the field early morning at 5 AM, they are still there at noon with the hot sun, just for a couple of bucks. That's the greatest inspiration for me. And working my way around to make their produce the hero is something that gives me a high. For me, it's not the best of ingredients, like for example, you import lamb chop, or you get something like a Wagyu, or you get something like an Alaskan Salmon and then the product itself speaks for itself, right? So, I don't do that. I try and work with very lesser-known ingredients, mediocre ingredients, the everyday ingredients and make them into something beautiful. So that's my high that's what keeps me going.

8. What pivotal experiences or mentors have shaped your culinary journey and philosophy?

Avinash Martins: Honestly, I've not followed anybody rigorously to be inspired by them. Goan cuisine is a culinary field where, as you might know, there haven't been any great mentors, there is Chef Urbano Rego, who's a pillar of Goan fare who's done so much for Goa. But you know he's done some great non-experimental classic Goan food. But as far as I can remember I have always had this penchant for twisting, turning, and transforming things into something better. Now I do stuff for a global platform so that a global diner recognizes Goan flavors and doesn't say, ''Hey, listen, your food is really spicy and it's too hot.'' So, for me, that's the challenge. So, my mentors have only been old uncles and aunties who've been cooking Goan food for ages.

9. What’s your secret guilty pleasure snack that you wouldn’t want your customers to know you enjoy?

Avinash Martins: I don't mind my customers knowing it, I love any day, a nice & simple Khichdi, which I can have for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  I would love to top it off with a nice roast mutton or something 'Sukha' which kind of complements it. So, I would take a bowl of it and quickly put a heap of a nice Sukha mutton or chicken and then quietly go back on the corner of the sofa and enjoy the pleasure of having it.

10. If you could invite one famous figure to a dinner party at Cavatina Cuchina, who would he/she be and what dish would you serve them?

Avinash Martins: The one famous person I would like to invite to Cavatina is unfortunately not alive. But it would be Mother Teresa because she's a person who's given so much back to the world and Mother Earth. I think it would have been a privilege for me to serve her with my own hands the food that I cook.

Avinash Martins' dedication to reimagining Goan cuisine while honoring its roots is truly inspiring. His commitment to sustainability and ethical practices adds another layer of depth to the dining experience. And his passion for food as art resonates in every aspect of the restaurant. It's evident that Cavatina Cuchina is more than just a dining destination—it's an embodiment of love for food and culture.

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